“Why did it take America so long to have female bartenders?” So asks David Wondrich, author of the superb cocktail history, Imbibe!, in his latest column at The Daily Beast.
As Wondrich notes, “it wasn’t about mixing drinks,” since women are obviously capable of doing that. And “it wasn’t about protecting the precious flower of American womanhood from the foul atmosphere of the bar,” since American women have been drunkenly inhaling that atmosphere since at least the days of King George III. So “what was the taboo against barmaids about?” After a long, interesting overview of American drunk history, Wondrich settles on this thesis:
Any answer, I think, would have to be sketched out along these lines. During Colonial times, men fell into the job of tending bar, particularly in parts of the country where women were in short supply. With the diminished class system that prevailed over here, it wasn’t seen